1. Preheat oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4. Wipe the partridges inside with a damp cloth.

2. Put a quarter of the butter, 3 juniper berries, a couple of sage leaves, a garlic clove and a pinch of salt in the cavity of each bird.

3. Season with salt and pepper. Put a sprig of rosemary on top of each bird and hold in place with a piece of pancetta draped over the bird.

4. Wrap each bird in buttered greaseproof paper, place in a roasting tin or oven proof dish and cook for about 30 minutes, or until juices run clear.

5. Remove paper, being careful not to spill the fragrant juices, and serve with mashed potatoes and green beans